Electric Warranty

15 Amp Outlet receptacles are found in the living room, bedroom, garage & patio. These outlets are not recommended for vacuums, refrigerators or freezers. 20 Amp Outlets receptacles are found in the dining room, breakfast nook, kitchen, and bathrooms. The kitchen and bathrooms are GFCI protected. These outlets are ideal for items like vacuums and hair dryers with only one outlet in use at a time, per room.

Solution: Check the breaker, reset if tripped *.
Garage/Exterior Outlets are found outside your home and are protected by a AF/GFCI Breaker.

Problem: No power to outside receptacles

Our Solution: Locate the AF/GFCI device and reset and/or check the breaker, reset if tripped *
Unplug surge protectors, fluorescent lights with electronic ballasts, and lighting controls with LED displays connected to the circuit. This can create load that causes the breaker to trip. Reset the breaker and reconnect items one at a time. If the breaker trips during this process, remove the device.

Half-Hot Outlet receptacles have one plug wired to a wall switch to allow the homeowner to light a room when entering. This type of outlet is used when a room is not pre-wired for a ceiling light.

Problem: Only top or bottom of receptacle works.

Our Solution: Find the correct switch and turn it on.

Solution: This commonly happens when too much plugged into the garage GFI. Freezers and fridges are the biggest culprit and Christmas lights during the holidays. If it is not plugged in the garage, is there anything plugged in on the porch as they are sometimes on the same circuit. unplug items and try to reset the GFI. If it not resetting, Try turning your breaker off to your garage resetting it & with nothing plugged in try resetting the GFI.

Our Solution: Check under the sink; make sure the both are plugged in. Be sure the blades are not jammed.

• Push the disposal reset button on the appliance; Disposals operate with a switch be sure you have located the correct switch.
• Check the breaker, reset if tripped.*

Solution: Is this occurring whenever the AC unit starts up. If yes, advise this is completely normal and no cause for concern. A slightly noticeable dim is ok, it’s doing it because when the AC kicks on, it’s starting 3 motors at once (compressor, condenser fan, and indoor fan) the inrush current to get these up and going pulls a lot of electricity.

If this happens when you are using an iron, hair dryer or vacuum cleaner in the bedroom, it for the same issue (pulling a lot of electricity). This is also normal and there is no solution to the issue. Recommend the homeowner use a 20amp circuit for these items located in their kitchen, nook, laundry room and bathrooms.

Solution: Does this happen when an item is plugged in or when lights are turned on. If no,

Too many items plugged in can cause a breaker to overload and trip. Bedrooms and family room are only on a l5 amp circuits. If you have a home office with items like computers, printers, fax machines and shredders – this is an overload. Even if items are plugged in, but not on, it is still pulling an electrical draw. We do advise if this happens a lot getting a dedicated circuit to avoid tripping breakers in home offices.

If this is happening when using items like an iron, hair dryer or a vacuum cleaner they are still overloading the circuit. These items pull a lot of electricity. A vacuum itself can pull up to 12 amps. That plugged in with anything else can cause the breaker to trip. Recommend using the 20amp circuits in the home which are in the kitchen, nook, laundry room and bathrooms.

Solution: Have any breakers been tripped. If no, do you have power to your AC, Stove, or dryer. If no, this is more than likely a power company issue known as a dropped LEGG. If yes, please contact your builder for a WO to be sent to us to be processed so we can come to your home.

If you have “lost power” to the majority of the home, make sure the AC or Range/Oven is still on. If neither are working this is most likely a Power Company issue. Call your provider first.

Solution: Have you checked your bulbs?

Problem: Recess can lights intermittently shut off.

Our Solution: This is commonly due to bulb wattage exceeding specifications. Open bulb recess cans & check lamp wattage, if more than 65watts, please replace with a lower wattage lamp. • Shower/closed bulb recess cans need 40 watt max bulb.

Solution: We use TRR (Tamper Resistant Receptacles) in our homes per code. They are installed with a shutter behind them to keep children from sticking small objects into them. Push the plug straight in with even pressure applied to both prongs. It cannot be inserted at an angle. Over time the outlets will become easier to use. However, if the outlet is still too difficult to plug into, please contact your builder for them to send a WO for us to process so we can come to your home.

Solution: Battery failure, replace the battery then hold down the reset button until you hear all the smoke detectors sound the alert. This must be repeated at each smoke detector location in order to ensure each detector is operational. Smoke detectors require periodic cleaning in order to operate correctly. Use a vacuum or broom to clean your smoke detectors.

Understanding the different type of smoke alarms battery powered or electrical? Different smoke alarms provide different types of protection. Know Where To Install Your Smoke Alarms Fire Safety Professionals recommend at least one Smoke Alarm on every level of your home, in every bedroom, and in every bedroom hallway or separate sleeping area. Know What smoke alarms can and can’t do A smoke alarm can help alert you to fire, giving you precious time to escape. It can only sound an alarm once smoke reaches the sensor.

• Battery (DC) operated Smoke Alarms: Provide protection even when electricity fails, provided the batteries are fresh and correctly installed. Units are easy to install, and do not require professional installation. They do not, however, provide interconnected functionality.
• AC powered Smoke Alarms: Can be interconnected so if one unit senses smoke, all units alarm. They do not operate if electricity fails. hardwired Smoke Alarms are designed to be mounted on any standard wiring junction box to a 4-inch (10 cm) size, on either the ceiling or wall.
• AC with battery (DC) back-up: will operate if electricity fails, provided the batteries are fresh and correctly installed. AC and AC/DC units must be installed by a qualified electrician.
• Wireless Interconnected Alarms: Offer the same interconnected functionality as with hardwired alarms, without wires. Units are easy to install and do not require professional installation. They provide protection even when electricity fails, provided the batteries are fresh and correctly installed.

AC powered Smoke Alarms should only be operated with true or pure sine wave inverters. Operating this Smoke Alarm with most battery powered UPS (uninterruptible power supply) products or square wave or “quasi sine wave” inverters will damage the Alarm. If you are not sure about your inverter or UPS type, please consult with the manufacturer to verify.

Special purpose Smoke Alarms should be installed for the hearing impaired. They include a visual alarm and an audible alarm horn, and meet the requirements of the Americans With Disabilities Act. These units can be interconnected so if one unit senses smoke, all units alarm.

Smoke alarms are not to be used with detector guards unless the combination has been evaluated and found suitable for that purpose.

All these Smoke Alarms are designed to provide early warning of fires if located, installed and cared for as described in the user’s manual, and if smoke reaches the Alarm. If you are unsure which type of unit to install, refer to NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) 72 (National Fire Alarm Code) and NFPA 101 (Life Safety Code). National Fire Protection Association, One Battery march Park, Quincy, MA 02269-9101. Local building codes may also require specific units in new construction or in different areas of the home.

No, they do talk to each other and they are standardized. So it does not matter which brands you install. As long as they are wired correctly, when one goes off they all will. Of course we are talking about modern wiring, some houses were not wired to allow for the detectors to signal to the others.

CO alarms or Smoke/CO combo alarms with a “smart interconnect” feature should be interconnected with compatible smoke and heat alarms. The smart interconnect sends a unique signal for smoke and CO alarms on one interconnect wire. With non-smart interconnect CO products, no electrical hazard is associated with such a connection of CO and smoke alarms. However, homeowner confusion can arise when an alarm condition exists when these two devices are interconnected as they have different horn patterns. In addition, the homeowner’s response to fire or CO hazards usually requires opposite reactions. In a fire, the homeowner needs to exit the building immediately. In a CO condition the homeowner should shut off appliances and open the windows before leaving the building.

Mistakenly identifying what condition caused the alarm can have tragic results. For example, if a fire actually caused the alarm condition and it is mistaken for a CO condition, opening windows and turning off appliances can actually feed the fire and cause the homeowner to be in the building for precious extra minutes they may not have. Conversely, if a CO condition is what initially caused the alarm, and the homeowner believes a fire condition exists and no fire is found, they could succumb to CO poisoning by remaining in the building. It is for these reasons that smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms should not be interconnected in a residential application unless the CO alarms have a smart interconnect feature.

Like all devices with electronic components, smoke alarms have a limited effective service life. As electronic devices, smoke alarms are subject to random failures. In 10 years there is roughly a 30% probability of failure before replacement. After 15 years, the chances are better than 50/50 that your alarm has failed. That is too big a risk to take. Replacing alarms after 10 years protects against the accumulated chance of failure, but monthly testing is still your first, best means of making sure your alarm will work.